Daytime and nighttime with the Black Indians
9th March 2015 · 0 Comments
By Geraldine Wyckoff
Contributing Writer
For the last five years, Big Chief Bo Dollis greeted the crowd at the uptown Indian Super Sunday parade with his typical big smile while perched on the back of a convertible. Due to illness, the Chief of the Wild Magnolias was no longer able to dance in the street as he once did though his great spirit prevailed.
In honor of the chief, who passed away on January 20, 2015, the convertible will roll in the parade on Sunday, March 15 though without its illustrious passenger. According to Bertrand Butler, the president of the Mardi Gras Indian Council that presents the annual event, the entire procession will be a tribute to Bo Dollis. “He’s the one who took us (the Mardi Gras Indian tradition) around the world,” Butler exclaims quickly adding the names of other ambassadors of the culture such as Big Chief Allison “Tootie” Montana of the Yellow Pocahontas, Big Chief Jolly of the Wild Tchoupitoulas and musician Professor Longhair.
Above, an iconic photo of the late Big Chief Bo Dollis, left, being greeted by Big Chief Monk Boudreaux during
at the onset of the Indian Super Sunday parade. This year’s event is March 15
The parade, which features the Hot 8 and Stooges brass bands and several social aid and pleasure clubs, starts from A.L. Davis Park at 1 pm. It heads down LaSalle moving on to Simon Bolivar Boulevard, turns left on Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard, left on South Claiborne Avenue, left on Washington Avenue and ends back at the park.
Many of the Black Indian gangs filter in from side streets along the parade route so to really see them all, it’s a good idea to stick around as they return back “home.”
Just four days later, in the evening on St. Joseph’s Day, March 19, the Mardi Gras Indians come out on the street for the last time until next Carnival. Of course, these days, they can also be seen performing at the New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival and other festive events.
However experiencing the Indians in their element — the streets — remains unique as it is in the neighborhoods where the culture was born and nurtured. The essence of the tradition is of the people, their pride and their resilience. On St. Joseph’s night, the Black Indians hit the streets after sunset to roam much as they do on Mardi Gras Day. They meet other gangs and perform their rituals rather than parade on a set route. It’s when, as many like to say, they “play” Indian with tambourines ringing, feet dancing, and Indians chanting and shouting.
Seeing the Indians at night is magical. Sometimes big gangs come from seemingly nowhere with their feathers and gemstones glowing from the light of the moon and streetlamps. Granted, for the uninitiated, the clamor that the Black Indians make and what could be perceived as fairly aggressive stances they take when they encounter other tribes, could be intimidating. In most cases, however, the very Indians who challenge each other soon warmly embrace.
Big Chief Bo Dollis’ spirit will definitely be felt this night too as Indians and admirers reach “his” corner Uptown at Second and Dryades Street. It’s one of the spots where many of the Mardi Gras Indian gangs can be found on St. Joseph’s night. Another Uptown place to look for the Indians is near A.L. Davis Park – they often come up LaSalle Street and march along Washington Avenue.
Downtown has gotten more active on St. Joseph’s night in recent years. Many tribes pass by the late Big Chief Tootie Montana’s and his wonderful wife’s house on North Villere off of St. Bernard Avenue. That’s also where his son, Big Chief Darryl Montana, starts his night. Last year, many of the gangs’ final destination was Tuba Fats Square located next to the Candle Light Lounge on North Robertson.
Checking Out Something New –
Circular Time
Sometimes there are just aspects of a band that sparks one’s curiosity even if you’re not necessarily familiar with the group or its members. Circular Time, a national and international touring ensemble that performs on Thursday, March 12, at Decatur Street’s Balcony Music Club, is such a band.
First of all, the members’ credentials are immediately impressive. Got to give it to a trumpet player who has stood next to the great jazz saxophonist David Murray or a drummer whose experience includes working with B.B. King and vocalist Regina Belle among others. The bassist was heard on vocalist Cassandra Wilson’s Grammy-winning CD New Moon Daughter and the guitarist impressively played with cornetist/vocalist Ola Dara. Everyone in this eight-piece band seems to have the right stuff – been with the right people – and their videos confirm their talent individually and collectively.
The musicians’ diverse backgrounds – they come from places like the Bronx, South Carolina, Miami and even Ghana – are reflected in the music that moves from jazz, reggae, world, R&B and soca. In other words, from the styles heard throughout African diaspora.
Showtime at the Balcony Music Club, 1331 Decatur Street, on the corner of Esplanade, is 11:00 p.m.
This article originally published in the March 9, 2015 print edition of The Louisiana Weekly newspaper.
