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Only in New Orleans?All Saints Day is a special time

29th October 2018   ·   0 Comments

By Geraldine Wyckoff
Contributing Writer

New Orleans is unique in so many ways though perhaps most apparently in its approach to death. Those who have passed are, of course, deeply mourned, yet their lives are also often celebrated primarily in the Black community with a jazz funeral. To reflect both, a brass band might play a slow dirge like “I’ll Fly Away” while a casket exits a church and then quicken the pace and mood with “Didn’t He Ramble” as second liners jump in the streets.

It’s been documented that the tradition of honoring the dead on the first of November, All Saints Day, dates back to 837 AD, yet it’s rarely recognized in most locales including the United States. New Orleanians, however, have long marked the day by visiting their loved ones in cemeteries across the city. It’s not unusual here to see individuals or whole families gathered at gravesites whitewashing gravestones, rearranging fallen bricks and basically doing general upkeep on the tombs of their relatives. Many come with flowers in remembrance of their ancestors – mothers, fathers, sisters, brothers, aunts, uncles and friends – and some carry picnic baskets and refreshments to enjoy while sharing memories.

In 1999, the Backstreet Cultural Museum, established a new tradition, its annual All Saints Day second line. It’s held to honor those who passed during the year and to pay tribute to jazz funerals in the museum’s continuing mission to keep this important cultural tradition alive.

The Treme Brass Band leading the Backstreet Cultural Museum's All Saints Day second line

The Treme Brass Band leading the Backstreet Cultural Museum’s All Saints Day second line

This year’s event will pay homage to Big Chief Thomas Sparks of the Yellowjacket Mardi Gras Indian gang. The highly respected chief donned his first Indian suit in 1947 and led the Yellowjacket tribe since 1955 and until his death on March 15, 2018 at the age of 86.

The museum will also honor Rev. Goat Carson, born David Lee Carson, who was a member of the Cherokee Native American tribe. A medicine man, activist and musician, Rev. Goat was most notably affiliated with the Backstreet Museum through his White Buffalo Day celebrations that took place there.

On Thursday, November 1, the museum’s All Saints Day procession, which includes a horse-drawn wagon with photos and memorabilia of the honorees, will begin at 3 p.m. at Rhodes Funeral Home, 1716 N. Claiborne Avenue. The Treme Brass Band, headed by the legendary bass drummer Benny Jones will lead the second line that goes down N. Claiborne, turns right on St. Anthony and then right on St. Bernard Avenue. It then jumps back to N. Claiborne Avenue and turns left. The first stop is Charbonnet Family Services, 1614 St. Philip St.

“We always do a dirge at Charbonnet,” says Jones who has participated in the museum’s parades since it opened. “I often think about some of the guys who have passed,” continues Jones who considers the event as a special opportunity to remember them and other friends and family.

The second line starts heading to the museum by way of St. Philip Street turning left on Henriette Delille on its way back home to the Backstreet Cultural Museum, 1116 Henriette Delille St. On arrival the Treme Brass Band will play a few numbers, presentations will be made and refreshments served.

A Party of Appreciation Extends the Day

The community that Sylvester Francis, the founder and curator of the Backstreet Cultural Museum, has served so well, decided to present a benefit of appreciation for him in recognition of all of his caring work. Through almost two decades, Francis has lovingly provided safe storage for the many acquisitions – Mardi Gras Indian suits, social aid and pleasure club outfits and more – that have been donated to the museum as well as enlightening the general public about the unique cultural traditions of the Black community.

The benefit, which stands as a separate entity from the Backstreet’s event, will be held in the lovely side yard of Kermit Ruffins’ Mother-in-Law Lounge, 1500 N. Claiborne Avenue, at approximately 5 p.m. following the museum’s All Saints Day second line. It will be a gathering of Francis’ many friends including Big Chief Victor Harris the Spirit of Fi Yi Yi, whose home base is the Backstreet Museum, which exhibits a number of his magnificent suits that completely awe visitors with their artistic imagery and intricacy. Other members of the Mardi Gras Indian Nation will also attend including the Queens of the Nation. The Gold Digger Baby Dolls will also be on hand.

Bruce “Sunpie” Barnes, who on Carnival Day leads the Northside Skull & Bone Gang that also call the museum its headquarters, will strap on his accordion to perform the zydeco beats for which he’s best known. Other musical friends include trumpeter/vocalist James Andrews, a man who keeps things real in everything he does for the community, as well as Treme stalwarts trombonist Corey Henry and trumpeter Derrick “Kabuki” Shezbie. Guitarist Les Getrix and Bobby Love & Friends will keep the party going.

There is a $10 cover charge for the benefit with proceeds going to Sylvester Francis who stands as the epitome of the Backstreet Cultural Museum’s motto: “A Powerhouse of Knowledge.”

Trumpeter/vocalist Kermit Ruffins also plays at his club on Thursday though his gig is indoors with a separate cover charge. So if there’s a time overlap just tell ‘em at the door you’re there for the benefit.

This article originally published in the October 22, 2018 print edition of The Louisiana Weekly newspaper.

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